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Au revoir, fashion month! It was a nostalgic show, with cheeky callouts to many of his previous collections, plus lots of new ideas to bring fashion ever forward.

As the fall collections drew to a close this week, one thing became obvious: Fantasy is over. His models carried grocery bags, yoga mats, and other detritus of everyday life. They were all emblazoned with her signature crescent moon logo. But different characters require different props, which is why this season there was also a barrage of flowers—a reminder to look for softness during hard times, perhaps—but also books, newspapers, and even a basketball. Matching serving tray top is optional. The apple is both a symbol of health and the sinful influence of woman.

Rick owens abstract

Agenda-setting intelligence, analysis and advice for the global fashion community. Demna pointed this out in a voicemail that accompanied his latest Balenciaga outing, calling creativity the new luxury. The collection ditched the oversized looks that took farcical form at Vetements, exploring new, lighter and more streamlined territory. It was a step forward and the video set was utterly hypnotic but was it creative enough to address consumer fatigue? Probably it was a bit of both, with a hefty debt to the sheer looks devised for Bianca Censori by Kanye West. As a marketing message, it worked, even if little of it will work on a sales floor. Both were in top form this season, one delving into tropes of wealth, the other boss dressing and clothing as armour. The brutalised tailoring at Ottolinger, in particular, looked awkward but full of energy. At Noir, Kei Ninomiya delivered powerful, colourful, iridescent goods that made for one of his best collections: a personal take on the very Comme silhouette of stompy shoes and frilly doll-like skirts, that had a jolly kind of lightness. And yet, it was perhaps a bit too nostalgic, a bit too much of a replica. Going forward, it will be interesting to see more Kamali and less brand code. The same cannot be said of the other big debut of the week.

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By subscribing, you agree to our Terms of Use and Privacy Policy. The sub-label recently debuted its Cargo Fetish boots , featuring extended-leg uppers that can easily replace your bottom half. Elsewhere, here is everything dropping at Palace this week. We got you covered. Brand Ranking Brand Directory. Footwear Mar 27, Read Full Article. What to Read Next.

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The heavily conceptual, Margiela-indebted inflection, however, looked a little out of place. It was a step forward and the video set was utterly hypnotic but was it creative enough to address consumer fatigue? Going back to the roots was a common theme this season: a way to reassure clients in difficult times but also a way for designers and houses to reassess their codes and assert a stronger sense of identity. Tags Designers Fashion Show. And without sacrificing an ounce of style either. A little bejeweled tiger at Luar. View comments. Signature silhouettes like slouchy boots and cocoon jackets were done up in leathers and suedes, trimmed in brilliant fringe and heavy hardware. Both were in top form this season, one delving into tropes of wealth, the other boss dressing and clothing as armour. Some looks had a nostalgic, Elle Woods-esque vibe to them, like fur-trimmed tops and a mini tube dress with a bubble skirt. Models walked throughout the space in a repeated loop as guests enjoyed espresso martinis made with rum. For the Ceremony.

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Top 10 Shows of the Season. As a marketing message, it worked, even if little of it will work on a sales floor. We all wish we could print it, and in this collection, Vaquera literally did, with cummerbunds, scarves, and shirts all printed in faux Vaquera-branded currency. Megabrands duke it out, but Miuccia Prada wins the day, writes Tim Blanks. Leather bags pictured here served as a nod to the Colombian Arhuaco Community. But as always, the devil is in the details. Yahoo Life Shopping. Going forward, it will be interesting to see more Kamali and less brand code. It was dressing reduced to its rawest state and turned up to maximum power. His obsession with the real and fake, the human and artificial, was on display in the tenuous, haphazard nature of the finale looks, juxtaposed alongside his de rigeuer streetwear and crinkled couture. You can unsubscribe at any time.