Mantua clothing

This gown was worn over a pair of stays corset and an often contrasting petticoat, mantua clothing. The draping and folding of fabric created a front-opening gown.

Mantua of damask silk with woven garlands and floral motifs. Courtesy GemeenteMuseum Den Haag. Introduced in Europe in the s, the mantua was in origin a loose coat for women, with a kimono-like cut. It was inspired by the clothes and robes recently imported from India, that were worn by Western men as dressing gowns. Court dress consisting of an embroidered silk mantua robe and petticoat, probably made in England, Courtesy Victoria and Albert Museum, all rights reserved.

Mantua clothing

Not on view. The late s saw a new development in the style of women's dress that would have a far-reaching effect throughout the following century. The stiff constricting boned bodice-and-skirt style previously worn by women was now replaced with the mantua, a more loosely draped style of gown. The mantua was thought to display silk designs to their best advantage, as they were draped rather than cut; as such, it is believed the garment was named after Mantua in Italy, where expensive silks were produced. However, it has also been suggested that the name derives from manteau , the French term for a coat. The mantua was a coatlike construction, with sleeves cut in one piece with the back and front. It was pleated at the shoulders and fell to the waist, where it was held in place by a sash. From there it was folded back into a bustle shape and worn over a matching petticoat. As the style evolved, the pleats at the front were reduced in number and the bodice was opened, with the torso now covered by a stiffened piece of fabric in the form of an inverted triangle, tapering into a narrow waist. This piece of fabric was known as a stomacher. Early examples are often intricately embroidered. While these gowns appear quite substantial, they were actually precariously fastened with pins to hold the stomacher in place.

The layers of clothing were heavy and mantua clothing and women had to take the time and trouble to practice the decorum of wearing the court mantua.

A mantua from the French manteuil or 'mantle' is an article of women's clothing worn in the late 17th century and 18th century. Initially a loose gown , the later mantua was an overgown or robe typically worn over stays , stomacher and either a co-ordinating or contrasting petticoat. The mantua or manteau was a new fashion that arose in the s. Instead of a bodice and skirt cut separately, the mantua hung from the shoulders to the floor like dresses of earlier periods. It started as the female version of the men's banyan , worn for "undress" wear. Gradually the mantua developed into a draped and pleated dress and eventually evolved into a dress worn looped and draped up over a contrasting petticoat and a stomacher.

A mantua from the French manteuil or 'mantle' is an article of women's clothing worn in the late 17th century and 18th century. Initially a loose gown , the later mantua was an overgown or robe typically worn over stays , stomacher and either a co-ordinating or contrasting petticoat. The mantua or manteau was a new fashion that arose in the s. Instead of a bodice and skirt cut separately, the mantua hung from the shoulders to the floor like dresses of earlier periods. It started as the female version of the men's banyan , worn for "undress" wear. Gradually the mantua developed into a draped and pleated dress and eventually evolved into a dress worn looped and draped up over a contrasting petticoat and a stomacher. The mantua-and-stomacher resulted in a high, square neckline in contrast to the broad, off-the-shoulder neckline previously in fashion. The new look was more modest and covered-up than previous fashions and decidedly fussy, with bows, frills, ribbons, and other trim, but the short string of pearls and pearl earrings or "eardrops" worn since the s remained popular. The mantua, made from a single length of fabric pleated to fit with a long train, was ideal for showing the designs of the new elaborately patterned silks that replaced the solid-coloured satins popular in the mid-century.

Mantua clothing

There is something deeply intriguing about mantuas. To date, the Mantua Project has studied over fifteen mantuas, recording stitching, construction and pattern development from each gown. A replica is then created to fully understand and experience the sewing methods. To build a picture of how the project works, this blog is going to follow the study and replication of a mantua gown. The gown chosen for this is the beautiful T. It has been altered since its original construction, but the essential techniques are still intact and it has proved a stunning gown for the study. The following narrative will refer to various areas of the mantua with distinct terms, so a diagram has been included to clarify these terms. Please see image 2.

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Use your arrow keys to navigate the tabs below, and your tab key to choose an item. However, the gendered segregation of labour remained. Finally, it was accessorized with the finest European lace and jewels. With the advent of modern fast fashion, the skills of both tailors and dressmakers are fast being lost, and with it the knowledge of this revolutionary trade for women. English, c. They sometimes worked alongside tailor family members and some were fined for doing so and widows were permitted to carry on the businesses of their deceased husbands. In Britain the shape remained largely the same for many years, with only minimal changes in the formation of the train, or the fashionable pattern of the silk. The costume mounter also had to make padded arms, which are stitched onto the acrylic torso, and a replica stomacher, as stomachers original to 18th century open-fronted dresses rarely survive. ISBN In other projects. Above: This silk stomacher is a rare survival from the early 18th century c

A mantua from the French manteuil or 'mantle' is an article of women's clothing worn in the late 17th century and 18th century.

New York. From there it was folded back into a bustle shape and worn over a matching petticoat. The costume mounter also had to make padded arms, which are stitched onto the acrylic torso, and a replica stomacher, as stomachers original to 18th century open-fronted dresses rarely survive. Historical clothing. The fashionable shape of the torso at this time was much more conical with a flatter, smoother bust line, fashioned by the rigid stays worn by ladies in the 18th century. ISSN OCLC You can see the process in action here:. It is rare for mantuas to survive in such excellent condition and the museum is particularly lucky to know the family this belonged to. Mounting historic garments for display reveals much about the body shape of the original wearer. Not on view. With the advent of modern fast fashion, the skills of both tailors and dressmakers are fast being lost, and with it the knowledge of this revolutionary trade for women. In the earliest mantuas, the long trained skirt was allowed to trail. Lace 19th century.